Wednesday, August 1, 2007
Athina
OK, so it is my turn to write this blog now, and the first thing I have to say is that Europe is just not all that it's cracked up to be. The people speak another language, possibly Dutch, they eat wierd stuff, and they have little or no concept of personal space. In fact, I woke up after spending the night on a park bench and this homeless guy and his dog were splitting a falafel right on top of me, and they were using no napkins of any kind! How rude. Also, once, in France I think, I saw a hunchback, and quite possibly a dwarf. Could have been the same person, but my spatial perspective was all messed up from staring up the belfries of decrepit churches all day. The National Health Care doctors here tell me I have the wickedest case of Knave Neck they have ever seen. But, Athens? Athens was by far the worst. The Parthenon is way more run down than the one in Nashville, the gyros lack the proper amount of tahini sauce, and the democracy is sub-par. I did like the people, or at least I liked that one guy who fell down from dehydration. He was a hoot. As this will probably be my last blog entry once my darling wife finds out what I have been up to, let me add one thing. Hey! Greece! Make a decent lamb chop, and then talk to me about culture!
Port O' Patra
From Corfu, we took a ferry to a port city in Greece called Patra. This ferry experience was quite the opposite of our previous from Italy to Greece, thank goodness. We were happy to find a pool on the top deck and soaked up some Adriatic rays along the way. Approaching Patra, we saw their beautiful bridge, the world's largest cable suspension bridge. We didn't know much about Patra, but it turned out to be decent place to stay for the next day before we could hop the train to Athens. Our place was called Pension Nicos and they had a great little rooftop terrace. Patra had a pretty happening nightlife, and we went to a little club called CiboCibo. While there, we ordered what we thought would be 2 seven year old Havana Clubs, but instead ended up with 4 glasses of tequila. Not wanting to be rude to our new Greek friend, we of course drank them. Next morning---- ATHENS!
Suspension bridge
On the ferry
Suspension bridge
On the ferry
Thursday, July 26, 2007
Washing up on Corfu
After the hellacious boat ride, T and I would have been happy to have gotten off that ferry in the Gobi Desert. Fortunately, we landed on Corfu Island instead. We rented a cute little VW and headed up the mountains to an area we'd read about called Paleokastritsa. Legend has it this is the beach on which Odysseus washed up after his travels. And what a lovely place to land! Our hotel had a marvelous view out on to the bay with a backdrop of mountains.
We enjoyed traditional Greek cuisine for about 2 days before all we wanted was a pizza. At one dinner, there were traditional dancers breaking plates and setting fires. Many questions arose as we watched, but all in all it was entertaining.
The two highlights of our Corfu expedition are as follows:
ONE: We drove our little car up to the northern point of the island and went to Sidari beach. Though the beach wasn't the greatest, there is an interesting rock formation there that locals call the Canal D'Amour. It's believed that if a couple swims through it, they will remain together forever. So we did. And even better, we swam out to a rock made of.... we're not sure... but it was a cross between mud and rock. So we broke pieces off and covered one another from head to toe in the mud like we saw some other locals doing. After allowing it to dry, we swam back and it took a good two showers to get clean, but it was awesome.
TWO: T did some research and found that there's a beach on Corfu that many consider to be one of the most beautiful on Earth. It also happened to be one of the most difficult to find, and after paying 4 euros to park, we realized a half mile hike down a steep dirt road lay ahead. Sweating like a couple of Albanians, we were relieved to arrive at what truly was a gorgeous beach, and we headed down the stairs. But there was a catch... the closer we got, the more all the beach's glory came into focus. We had arrived on maybe not the most gorgeous, but certainly the most NAKED beach on Earth. We couldn't exactly turn around at this stage, so we kept on and did our best to avert our eyes from what can only be described as the most wieners one might ever want to see outside of a Braves game. NOTE: Mom, Lynn... fear not, we were by far the most modest people on the beach.
***I regret to say I cannot upload my pics on this computer, so I will add them to this post whenever I am able to next.
8-1-07 PICTURE UPDATE
We enjoyed traditional Greek cuisine for about 2 days before all we wanted was a pizza. At one dinner, there were traditional dancers breaking plates and setting fires. Many questions arose as we watched, but all in all it was entertaining.
The two highlights of our Corfu expedition are as follows:
ONE: We drove our little car up to the northern point of the island and went to Sidari beach. Though the beach wasn't the greatest, there is an interesting rock formation there that locals call the Canal D'Amour. It's believed that if a couple swims through it, they will remain together forever. So we did. And even better, we swam out to a rock made of.... we're not sure... but it was a cross between mud and rock. So we broke pieces off and covered one another from head to toe in the mud like we saw some other locals doing. After allowing it to dry, we swam back and it took a good two showers to get clean, but it was awesome.
TWO: T did some research and found that there's a beach on Corfu that many consider to be one of the most beautiful on Earth. It also happened to be one of the most difficult to find, and after paying 4 euros to park, we realized a half mile hike down a steep dirt road lay ahead. Sweating like a couple of Albanians, we were relieved to arrive at what truly was a gorgeous beach, and we headed down the stairs. But there was a catch... the closer we got, the more all the beach's glory came into focus. We had arrived on maybe not the most gorgeous, but certainly the most NAKED beach on Earth. We couldn't exactly turn around at this stage, so we kept on and did our best to avert our eyes from what can only be described as the most wieners one might ever want to see outside of a Braves game. NOTE: Mom, Lynn... fear not, we were by far the most modest people on the beach.
***I regret to say I cannot upload my pics on this computer, so I will add them to this post whenever I am able to next.
8-1-07 PICTURE UPDATE
Sunday, July 22, 2007
Oh what a night
This titular reference is to what T and I consider to be the very lowest of points on our trip- the overnight boat ride from Bari, Italy to Corfu, Greece. Words cannot describe the horrors aboard this boat, which we like to refer to as the SS Scum Sauce. The ferry was headed to Igoumenitsa, Greece- one of the only ports to get to Albania. Now, I hope no Albanians are reading our blog, because T and I hate you. I'm not kidding, this was a boat full of the smelliest, rudest, loudest, smokiest, most horrible people we have ever had the displeasure of knowing.
Though we paid a pretty penny for a seat on this 11 hour journey, actually getting to that seat was quite the battle. There were people splayed out on every square inch of floor space, luggage blocking our paths every which way, and an old gross lady's feet and greasy head regularly falling onto our seats. While we could not get to our 2 seats, there were Albanians stretched across 4 and 5 seats a piece.
So T and I tried to sleep on the upper deck under the stars (on top of one of the engine covers), but it was too cold in the wind and everything was wet. We also tried sleeping in our seats, but a supersonic snorer prevented that. The only wink of sleep we got was in the bar where many people in our position, blocked from their seats, finally passed out in the chairs in this smelly littered space while listening to the bongs and bells of the neighboring "casino," AKA 4 electronic gambling machines. T tried to help me out by reminding me that RLance and TMeyer did this for months throughout Asia, and I knew they were really hardy guys. Inspired by them, I was tough, and I only cried a little bit.
Though we paid a pretty penny for a seat on this 11 hour journey, actually getting to that seat was quite the battle. There were people splayed out on every square inch of floor space, luggage blocking our paths every which way, and an old gross lady's feet and greasy head regularly falling onto our seats. While we could not get to our 2 seats, there were Albanians stretched across 4 and 5 seats a piece.
So T and I tried to sleep on the upper deck under the stars (on top of one of the engine covers), but it was too cold in the wind and everything was wet. We also tried sleeping in our seats, but a supersonic snorer prevented that. The only wink of sleep we got was in the bar where many people in our position, blocked from their seats, finally passed out in the chairs in this smelly littered space while listening to the bongs and bells of the neighboring "casino," AKA 4 electronic gambling machines. T tried to help me out by reminding me that RLance and TMeyer did this for months throughout Asia, and I knew they were really hardy guys. Inspired by them, I was tough, and I only cried a little bit.
Monday, July 16, 2007
Video Update
Now that I have harnessed the power of the video blog, here are some of our favorites from the trip thus far.
From the Eiffel Tower at midnight when the lights come on...
The Cult show in Barcelona...
Barcelona street performer...
San Raphael Jazz Fest...
Tavoli Fountains in Rome...
Crazy waves in Capri...
View from our scooter in Anacapri...
Hanging on balcony at Bussola di Hermes, Anacapri...
Walking home, Anacapri...
From the Eiffel Tower at midnight when the lights come on...
The Cult show in Barcelona...
Barcelona street performer...
San Raphael Jazz Fest...
Tavoli Fountains in Rome...
Crazy waves in Capri...
View from our scooter in Anacapri...
Hanging on balcony at Bussola di Hermes, Anacapri...
Walking home, Anacapri...
Belinda Carlisle was right...
... heaven IS a place on earth. It is called Capri, a lovely island off of the Amalfi coast. T and I arrived in a dreamlike, sleepy state. To get to Capri, we took a train from Roma to Napoli, and then a ferry, past Mt. Vesuvio, to the island. The seas were very rough, causing the girl in front of us to throw up, and I would have started a chain reaction if it weren't for T's tale of peril with the Meyers on a small plane (supposedly piloted by a preteen) in Zambia. It's a good one.
We decided to stay in the moutains beyond Capri Centrale, as that area is outrageously expensive, but we preferred it to the wildly touristy area. Anacapri sits about 800 meters above sea level and is a network of tiny little streets and homes with iron gates and hand painted tiles stating who lives where- ie Casa Antonio. Even the electrical lines are marked by these ornate tiles.
It was very confusing the first night when our taxi driver dropped us off a good distance from the hotel saying in broken English that cars cannot go any further into Anacapri. So we roamed the streets in the dark until finding an old lady to point us towards our hotel, Bussola di Hermes, the compass of Hermes. We were delighted to find a clean and colorful room- not to mention the vending machine sold cheap Italian beer.
By day, Anacapri has a bustling town center full of shops and markets, delicious food, and loud Italians. We rented a scooter to get a lay of the land the first day. For as brave as I am, taking that thing around the treacherous corners, practically nose diving down the mountains, dodging careless pedestrians, dogs, buses, and other more experienced moto riders, was quite an adventure. But T took good care of me even though he wanted to ride like the wind (and might have had I not been using his thighs as my imaginary brake pedals).
There are several beaches that we visited each day. Unlike the sandy beaches we are accustomed to, these were mostly cliffs and boulders with waves crashing into them. There were a few places with sand/stone, but it was hard to get a spot there.
Our favorite spot was near the famous Gratta Azzurra, or Blue Grotto. We camped out each day waiting for the waves to calm down enough to go into it. While waiting, we enjoyed jumping from the cliffs into the pristine water. By day, large boats take tourists near the miniscule entrance of this cave, then load them onto small row boats where they have to lay flat inside them in order not to knock their heads on the way into the cave. After 5, the boats pull out, and the brave few take their chances swimming through the 3 by 3 jagged hole. We, of course, took the swimming route. Once inside, the waters are extremely calm and the tiny bit of sun that shines inside is enough to light the deep water from far beneath. Our best words for the color it produced was neon sapphire. It was absolutely breathtaking.
We loved Anacapri so much, we stayed 5 whole days and loved every minute of it. The half way mark of our time has passed though, and we have lots to do, so we left yesterday. We first shuttled down the mountain to the harbor, then took a hydrofoil to Napoli, a cab to the train station, a train to Bari via Caserta, a public bus from the train station to Bari's port--- all to find out it was a national holiday yesterday and no ferries were running to Greece. C'est la travel. So we're camped out in Bari waiting for the ferry that will take us overnight to our next destination, Corfu. Update to follow.
Much love to all.
T celebrating our arrival while wearing new tie from street in Roma
One of many stops to enjoy the view down below
T, AKA Cool Rider (that one's for you, Torsi)
Looking down from road
Enjoying some Limoncello with Monkey
On a surprisingly comfortable rock in Marina Grande
On Faro beach, too choppy to swim this day
Sunset from our balcony
Atop Capri
From the peak of the island where the chairlift drops you- about 1,200 meters up
View to Marina Piccola and Faraglioni (3 rocks)
Outside the Gratta Azzura
Enjoying Faro "beach"
After our beach day
On Via Vigna, leading to our hotel
View of Mt. Vesuvio from our ferry to Napoli
The start of a 10 hour travel day, still looking pretty good
We decided to stay in the moutains beyond Capri Centrale, as that area is outrageously expensive, but we preferred it to the wildly touristy area. Anacapri sits about 800 meters above sea level and is a network of tiny little streets and homes with iron gates and hand painted tiles stating who lives where- ie Casa Antonio. Even the electrical lines are marked by these ornate tiles.
It was very confusing the first night when our taxi driver dropped us off a good distance from the hotel saying in broken English that cars cannot go any further into Anacapri. So we roamed the streets in the dark until finding an old lady to point us towards our hotel, Bussola di Hermes, the compass of Hermes. We were delighted to find a clean and colorful room- not to mention the vending machine sold cheap Italian beer.
By day, Anacapri has a bustling town center full of shops and markets, delicious food, and loud Italians. We rented a scooter to get a lay of the land the first day. For as brave as I am, taking that thing around the treacherous corners, practically nose diving down the mountains, dodging careless pedestrians, dogs, buses, and other more experienced moto riders, was quite an adventure. But T took good care of me even though he wanted to ride like the wind (and might have had I not been using his thighs as my imaginary brake pedals).
There are several beaches that we visited each day. Unlike the sandy beaches we are accustomed to, these were mostly cliffs and boulders with waves crashing into them. There were a few places with sand/stone, but it was hard to get a spot there.
Our favorite spot was near the famous Gratta Azzurra, or Blue Grotto. We camped out each day waiting for the waves to calm down enough to go into it. While waiting, we enjoyed jumping from the cliffs into the pristine water. By day, large boats take tourists near the miniscule entrance of this cave, then load them onto small row boats where they have to lay flat inside them in order not to knock their heads on the way into the cave. After 5, the boats pull out, and the brave few take their chances swimming through the 3 by 3 jagged hole. We, of course, took the swimming route. Once inside, the waters are extremely calm and the tiny bit of sun that shines inside is enough to light the deep water from far beneath. Our best words for the color it produced was neon sapphire. It was absolutely breathtaking.
We loved Anacapri so much, we stayed 5 whole days and loved every minute of it. The half way mark of our time has passed though, and we have lots to do, so we left yesterday. We first shuttled down the mountain to the harbor, then took a hydrofoil to Napoli, a cab to the train station, a train to Bari via Caserta, a public bus from the train station to Bari's port--- all to find out it was a national holiday yesterday and no ferries were running to Greece. C'est la travel. So we're camped out in Bari waiting for the ferry that will take us overnight to our next destination, Corfu. Update to follow.
Much love to all.
Our first view of the island
OMG, a clean shower WITH a curtain- and an SOS pull for the record
T celebrating our arrival while wearing new tie from street in Roma
Day one, exploring Capri via Moto
One of many stops to enjoy the view down below
T, AKA Cool Rider (that one's for you, Torsi)
Looking down from road
Enjoying some Limoncello with Monkey
On a surprisingly comfortable rock in Marina Grande
On Faro beach, too choppy to swim this day
Sunset from our balcony
Monkey and I on the chairlift to highest point of the island
T getting high
Atop Capri
From the peak of the island where the chairlift drops you- about 1,200 meters up
View to Marina Piccola and Faraglioni (3 rocks)
T on our balcony
Outside the Gratta Azzura
Enjoying Faro "beach"
After our beach dayOn Via Vigna, leading to our hotel
There are many cats roaming around Capri, and this is T with one of them
View of Mt. Vesuvio from our ferry to Napoli
The start of a 10 hour travel day, still looking pretty good
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